Last week Saturday I set out on my third journey to the nation of Israel. My first visit happened in the summer of 1992, at the wee age of 19; the second took place in September of 2005, about three months after moving back to Iowa from San Francisco, and now the third, a little more than two years after moving to Seattle.
Each trip has had its own distinctive flavor; this one could be marked by brevity (one week, vs. 9 weeks in 1992 and a month in 2005), but really two words come to mind - shabbat (rest) and shalom (peace). Now the first in particular might seem odd in light of all the things I've done in the last five days, but just getting away from the day-in day-out of the Monday through Friday hamster wheel for a week feels like a major holiday.
The trip certainly started out a bit bumpy. My route to Tel Aviv took me through Paris via Air France, and my departing flight from Seattle was going to be just over an hour delayed. That was unfortunately just enough to make me miss my connecting flight at Charles de Galle Airport, meaning I would have nine hours in Paris with nothing to do.
Well, maybe nothing to do for someone else, but I decided to take advantage of the situation and do a bit of sightseeing. At the airport train station I bought a one-day transit pass, and went to see the Eiffel Tower and Palace of Versailles. The weather wasn't exactly co-operative (gale force winds and driving rain), but I didn't really care - I'd wanted to see the Eiffel Tower since I was a kid, and finally got my chance. It looked like... a big metal tower! Certainly nothing to make my heart skip a beat or anything, but still worth it.
The Palace of Versailles was incredible, although unfortunately due to my schedule I spent more time waiting in line than I did actually exploring the palace. Still, I'm glad I went, and it really made me stop to ponder - how one man (Louis XIV) could command such glory, honor, and wealth, and how Jesus, King of Kings and Lord of Lords, came to earth as a humble servant.
Eventually I was on a plane to Tel Aviv (delayed, of course), arriving in Israel around 1am, bleary-eyed but happy. My dear friend and former roommate from San Francisco was waiting to meet me, and we chatted away on the 45-minute or so drive up to Jerusalem.
Now my previous visits to Israel had always been in mid- to late-summer, so I was used to clear skies, blazing sunshine and hot temperatures. This time I was greeted with clouds and pouring rain. Fortunately I came prepared, but it still was a bit of a shock! Day 1 in Jerusalem I got situated in the morning, then walked to the Old City with my friend for lunch at a place on the Via del Rosa called Lina. It had, hands-down, the BEST hummus I've ever tasted - it was prepared right there, fresh, and served warm with piping-hot pita bread. We added a plate of Lebna (yogurt-cheese with tomatoes and cucumbers) and had one filling meal.
I then set out to tour the Holy Sepulchre, the traditional site of Jesus' burial and resurrection. It reminded me of a quasi-Christian version of the temples I visited in Cambodia - idols, idols everywhere! Don't get me wrong, from an artistic and architectural standpoint it was impressive, but I couldn't help but wonder how the church we read about in Acts 2 had come to this - shrines, incense, and kissing stones. Monday night was capped with a visit to a local restaurant, where my friend and his wife got to catch me up on their lives, and I was able to do the same.
Tuesday turned out to be an un-official day of rest. I woke up to the sound of pouring rain, and didn't really feel like getting out of bed. When I finally did, I made breakfast, did some reading and praying, and then went back to bed again! I finally got up around 11:30am, and walked to the Old City to meet my friend for lunch, this time at a hip Israeli sandwich shop in the brand-new mall. After lunch I walked down to the 24/7 house of prayer, and spent some time in fellowship with Jesus.
At 2:30pm I met up with my friend, and we headed back to his house to get ready for dinner that night, a big gathering of all his co-workers and their families. We must have had 15+ people - adults and kids - packed into the apartment, but the evening was a lot of fun and the food (turkey kabobs with a lemon/garlic/olive oil marinade) was fantastic! At the end of the evening, my friend hooked up his rappelling gear in the living room to teach me some basic skills in preparation for our planned trip to Qumran the next day. Once the kids saw how much fun I was having, they had to get in on the action too. My favorite moment was watching a 2-year-old girl squeal with delight as her daddy helped her down to the floor.
Wednesday morning I awoke to clear blue skies and abundant sunshine - just the forecast we'd be hoping for! My friend and I packed up our gear, made lunches, and headed out the door, arriving at Qumran at about 8:45am. Our plan was to hike to the top of the canyon, then scramble down until we reached the spot where anchors had been installed for rappelling. The scenery was breathtaking - the Dead Sea to the east, and the Judean Desert to the north, south, and west. We even ran into a few ibex (like deer with horns that curl up) bounding over the hills.
Soon enough we were descending through the canyon, chatting and occasionally stopping to soak up the fascinating rock formations. When it was all said and done, I actually found this part more challenging than the rappels, because we had to scramble in reverse down some pretty tricky spots - something I absolutely hate!
Our first rappel would be one of the biggest, with a 100-foot sheer drop to the floor of the canyon below. I was a bit hesitant at the start, but thanks to my lesson the night before, once I got over the lip of the cliff I found rappelling to be quite easy and a lot of fun. Unfortunately I had one minor disaster - I wasn't thinking and put my camera in the wrong pocket of my pants. When I leaned back to descent out it went, its plastic exoskeleton hitting the rocks below with full force. At least I was able to salvage the memory card and all the pictures I'd taken up to that point!
We thought there were going to be a total of four rappels, but it turned out there were actually six. It didn't really matter as we both were having a great time. At the end of the sixth rappel we had to scramble out of the canyon up some very loose rock, which was in the full heat of the day and not so much fun, but thankfully it didn't last long. After resting a bit and wolfing down our lunch (pita bread with peanut butter, granola bars, pistachio nuts, and yes, my favorite, a big chunk of halva!), we hopped back in the car to our next destination, the Nahal Prat nature reserve just outside of Jerusalem.
Now I have to be honest - on the drive to Nahal Prat I was a bit nervous, as we were officially inside the West Bank. To get to the park we had to drive through a Jewish settlement and several gates, which at least made me feel a bit more secure. Once we got the park, I think both my friend and I immediately found ourselves lost in the surroundings, lush green foliage around a shimmering clear stream running through a spectacular canyon. Sadly, the park closed that day at 4pm, so we really only had about an hour to explore. Not ones to back away from a challenge, we slung our packs on and headed out on a quest to find a decent swimming hole.
At exactly our designated turn-around time of 3pm, we found just that - a wonderful place to swim underneath a small waterfall surrounded by wild mint. The smell of mint in the air was truly magical as we immersed in the cool, refreshing water. We then double-timed it on the way back, dodging the fresh-water crabs on the trail as we went.
On our way out we had a couple young Israelis - one of them a soldier - ask us to give them a lift back to Jerusalem. My friend was glad to oblige, and I was happy to be driving through the West Bank with an M-16 in the back seat! Thanks to traffic the trek home went quite slow once we got to the outskirts of the city, but this created a perfect opportunity for my friend to share the gospel in Hebrew with our guests.
Back at the house, both of us were completely exhausted and went to bed early. I fell asleep right away at 8pm, but woke up again at around 11pm and couldn't sleep. What to do? I spent some time praying, then read a book until I fell back asleep again.
Today was my commando-tour of Jerusalem day. I hadn't intended it to be that, but it just sort of worked out that way. In the space of seven hours, I:
- Visited the Rockefeller Museum (free, and a must-see. Fascinating pieces of archeology from about 10,000 B.C. to 500 A.D.)
- Power-walked to the top of the Mount of Olives
- Zipped through the Garden of Gethsemane (I've been there twice before, hence the reason I felt no need to linger)
- Spent some time at the garden tomb, a popular site for evangelicals visiting Jerusalem. Although most likely not the actual tomb of Jesus, you at least get a much better sense for what it would have looked like, not to mention a far more reflective space than the insanity of the Holy Sepulchre.
- Went back to Lina for lunch - fresh pita and a big bowl of warm, fresh hummus with pine nuts
- Meandered up north a bit to the neighborhood where I stayed in 2005, and a quick walk through the Jewish open-air market called the Shuk.
- Moved over to the Knesset, the Israeli parliament, for a tour at 1:45pm in English.
- Headed down to the Shrine of the Book, home to the Dead Sea Scrolls and a giant scale model of Jerusalem during the time of Jesus